Beach House Chef Director shares his passion for winter and how the season influences his cooking
The rain feels like it has been nonstop as of late, and the leaves have all but fallen off the windswept trees. But on the positive side, you’ll find getting down to the beach and into the car parks somewhat easier now, which is a bonus…
After the plentiful and varied produce of summer, my menus now transition towards the more comforting and earthier fruit and vegetables of winter. Celeriac, crown prince pumpkins, swede, pears, truffles and a various assortment of mushrooms to name a few. Game season is in full swing too, with partridge and venison making an appearance on the menu, Gower salt marsh lamb also still coming through in great quality.
Being a keen hunter, I love this time of year, it allows me to showcase the marriage of these brilliant ingredients and what they have to offer, the uniqueness in flavour and texture is something to really embrace and enjoy. I’m not interested in creating heavy jammy sauces or thick lumpy bread sauce, instead, there’ll be plenty of acidity and contrasting flavours and textures on the cards.
“Llandeilo fallow deer with Môn las cheese, crispy bacon, Jerusalem artichoke and pickled pear, finished off with a juniper, honey and sherry vinegar sauce, is an absolute winter delight.Hywel Griffith, Beach House Chef Director
Partridge with salsify, black garlic, apple, cep mushroom, shaved chestnut, crispy shallot rings, nasturtium leaf and a star anise infused sauce in another favourite of mine.
I’ve long been a fan of Gower Salt Marsh Lamb, it’s the best in the world in my opinion, and sourced just a few miles away from Beach House. Gower Salt Marsh Lamb now boasts a more robust garnish, and I’m keen on serving barbequed loin, with creamed black cabbage, roasted and pureed celeriac, lamb sauce and chive oil, together with a lovely braised ragu made from the breast. I like to top this with whipped potato and garnish with sage breadcrumbs cooked in browned butter. It’s just perfect for these wild and wet wintery days.